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Jun
22
We left the hotel at 7:15 AM. Metro to Termini.
Then we headed down the coast to Naples. We had an entire train car to ourselves. Most slept, I watched for California. Good thing too, they were all over!
I started feeling sad. Such a great trip, I hate for it to end.
Then we could see the sea! The Mediterranean on one side Mount Vesuvius on the other.
Our train was late getting into Naples. Because of this, we had to take a later connecting train on the Circumvesuvius. This got us to Pompeii later and pushed everything back.
Had to plan as we went. Our tour was supposed to last about 2 hours. Another 30 minutes back to Naples. Then I wanted to take everyone out for pizza. Plus we had to catch our train back to Rome. Since we started our tour one hour late, it wasn’t looking good for pizza. This also pushed out lunch time back late. Hot sun, hungry people. Not a good mix.
The weather was gorgeous. It was hot, but perfect blue skies. There was a little cloud (maybe smoke) just over the volcano. The last time I was here, it was a cold rainy day in March. This was much better!
The tour was good. I’d never used the guide before, he was okay. Certainly no Luca or Paolo. But, he knew what he was talking about.
I spoke with the teachers about our dilemma. Either get some boring food at the station and make our train, or try to switch to a later train and eat pizza. We all agreed that Napoli pizza was the way to go.
Once we got back to Naples, I ran off the train to the ticket counter. Since we had reservations, I was a little concerned about being able to switch. Our train was scheduled to leave in 30 minutes. I was willing to pay for an upgrade, or a reservation change. Whatever it took to get pizza. But, there was no problem. The guy switched our tickets and we now had new reservations, and an hour and a half for pizza.
Pizza was invented in Napoli and there are two dueling pizzerias that have been at it since about 1928. I’ve read that they are the best. One serves just two kinds, one with cheese, one without. The other has more options. We opted for options.
In Rome, cars stop when you cross. They may act like they are not going to stop, but they do. Even if it’s an illegal crossing, jaywalk style, they’ll stop. Never tried, but I bet if someone tried to cross a highway, the cars would stop and think nothing of it. Naples is different. Even a legal crossing at a red light with cops all around is risky. Cars do not stop, in fact, I think they try to run people over. So, our hike to the pizzeria was an adventure. I warned everyone to watch their pockets and be brave when crossing streets. And it worked, no one was robbed or run over.
We walked a few blocks (about 10 minutes) to the pizzeria. I’d never been, so I had a little trouble finding the street. We walked up, and they were closed. Great. All that build up of the best pizza ever and it was closed. Luckily, the older of the two pizzerias was open. So we walked across the street.
It was packed. They had maybe 10 tables. We had a group of 15. But, they said the wait was only 10 minutes. Not too bad. We still had about an hour before our train left.
Ten minutes passed ‘ten more minutes’… ‘ten more minutes’… finally they seated us at 4:00 PM (train departs at 4:30 PM, add in a ten minute walk. Pushing it!
But we were starving. So we sat. And waited. Shift change!
At 4:10, they took our orders. Food on the table by 4:15. Food gone by 4:20. And a quick run to the station.
We got to the train at 4:29, and it was delayed! We could have made it too!
Well, it was an adventure.
The train arrived and we boarded. We had two reserved cabins, plus three extra seats. The first cabin was occupied. Locked with the curtains drawn. I yanked open the door and attempted to kick out two kids. They didn’t care what I had to say, so Mr. Crisanti came in and got them out.
The other reserved cabin was also occupied. They did not care that we had reserved seats. They said they were there because their cabin had no air conditioning. They did not care what I had to say, what Ms. Freeman had to say or what Mr. Crisanti had to say. They were not moving.
Tracked down the conductor and he booted them out. They listened to him!
We all settled in to our 2.5 hour train ride.
There are several types of trains in Italy (Europe)…
The EuroStar is the super fancy high speed train. Nice dining car. Windows do not open. Great air conditioning. Comfy reclining seats. Even laptop power ports.
Then there are the trains with windows that open. Some have air conditioning, some do not. The seats do not recline. The trains are slower and grittier. Typically a more interesting group of people than the EuroStar.
My favorite type of trains, though, are the ones with private compartments. Doors that close and a curtain for added privacy. The windows open, and they have air conditioning too. I’ve always loved these trains. But, I’m usually alone or with one other person. This time was perfect. There are six seats in each cabin, and we had them all. Another great thing about these private cabins, the seats fold all the way down, making a flat bed. So, we closed the door and curtain, slid down the seats and took a relaxing 2.5 hour nap. Ah, Italia.
Tonight we were on our own for dinner. When I have young people, I always offer to take them to the Hard Rock Cafe one evening. This was that evening. I was not surprised when diner for 8, turned into dinner for 15. Everyone wanted to go and I even invited an Atlanta seminarian, Josh Allen, to join us.
Burgers and salads and rock n’ roll all around.
From here we started our night walk through Rome. Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon - GELATO - Piazza Navona, Saint Peter’s Square. Bed.
Jun
21
This morning went to Saint Peter’s for Mass. But, first, a few of us went to Confession.
We wanted to go to the Latin Mass (Latin group and all) but there was a special French Mass in the usual Latin time slot. Oh well.
A long Mass in another language often leads to this:
After Mass we all headed outside to see the Holy Father.
Then we had an afternoon of free time. The Latin group went looking for old stuff, the art history group went looking for art. I enjoyed a few hours of down time.
We met back up at the Pantheon and did a quick tour of the nearby churches. Santa Maria sopra Minerva, Gesu, Sant’Ignazio, and San Luigi. And my favorite church/building of all, the Pantheon.
In Santa Maria sopra Minerva, we had some quiet time to rest. It was a hot Roman day and everyone had been out walking for hours. It was nice to find a quiet church to just relax. A few of us hung out with Saint Catherine and Jesus.
Then to Piazza Navona to kill some time before dinner at Orso’80.
Orso’80 is another of my fav restaurants. I order the mixed antipasti. They bring out about 15 different appetizers, family style. Always fun.
One of my favorite appetizers is the prosciutto e melone. Ham and cantaloupe. Sounds strange, but oh so good.
Then back to the hotel.
One person needed a calling card (at 11:00 PM) so I went on the search. I am a full service guide, you know. It took about 45 minutes, but I finally found a place open at almost midnight on a Sunday. I bought the card and took it to her room. Then I passed out. Long day, super early morning tomorrow.
Jun
21
BT Day Five (to the Ancient City)
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We had an early start today. Our train left Florence at 9:18 AM. That meant we had to be at the station by 8:30 AM. So, taxi from the hotel by 8:00 AM. Breakfast at 7:15 AM. Up by 6:00 AM.
Late last night we noticed they were filming right outside the hotel. Still not sure if it was Twilight, but we all went down and strolled around the set until they kicked us off. I did stay back with one person and watch them film a random scene with someone crossing the street. They shot if four times and still did not have the proper lighting, so we decided it was time to go to bed.
The train ride was nice. EuroStar. Dining car. Super fast and smooth.
We were in Rome by 11:00 AM. Since this was a small group of teens, and our hotel was right on the line, we took the Metro from the station. It’s so much cheaper than a private bus and way more exciting. A private bus is about €200. Metro for 15 people, €15. I use the Metro on all my trips, but never with luggage. I was not concerned with this group.
Most of the rooms at the Alimandi were ready and we were all hungry. I made some lunch suggestions and then took the boys to my friend, Marco’s restaurant. We had sandwiches. Mmmm.
Then it was back to the hotel to freshen up. I was staying at the owner’s (Paolo Alimandi) apartment, and he was not ready for me. So, I left all my luggage in someone else’s room. I really wanted a quick nap, but that would have been weird.
When we met in lobby, I found out one girl had gotten sick. Strange but I take a lot of trains and it’s only on the EuroStar that people seem to get sick. Maybe it’s the gentle swaying. It’s much smoother than the other trains. Who knows?
So, back to the Metro and off to the Colosseum.
We met our guide, Paolo, from Eternal City Tours. I’ve been using him for years and each time, I learn something new. He’s always a huge hit. An American living in Rome studying at one of the Pontifical Universities. His thing is the Philosopher’s Guide to Rome. Super Catholic too!
I came to Rome several times a year for six years before I ever went inside the Colosseum. I’d strolled through the Forum, but it just wasn’t my thing. Now, visiting the Ancient City is one of my highlights. And this time, traveling with a Latin group, made it even better.
For the first time since I’ve been visiting Rome, Caesar’s house was open to the public. Frescos that are 1000’s years old look as if they were done yesterday. It was amazing.
After the Ancient City tour, it was back on the Metro to the hotel. We all changed into dinner attire and headed to Bastioni’s. This is always my first stop in Rome. I love the family who runs the place, Emilio (the chef) and his kids Andrew and Christina are awesome. And the food is great too!
Tonight we had the usual, Penne alla Bastioni. The house specialty of penne pasta with an orange and tomato sauce. So strange and so good. Great conversation at the adult table about temperaments.
After dinner we went for quantity over quality, Old Bridge. Quality is pretty good too, but not compared to Vivoli’s or GROM. With our gelato, we strolled over the Saint Peter’s Square and enjoyed the full moon and perfect weather.
Just another evening the Eternal City.
Jun
8
From the train. Roma - Napoli
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As we travel south down the coast to Naples, I’m starting to get sad. My iPod is picking the best songs for my mood, as well.
I’m so excited to get home to my family, but I really love this group.
Everyone here has a place in my heart.
Everyone has made an impact.
Jun
8
Day Four (Dr. Luca!)
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Just a few days in and I have to say I’m totally in love with this group. So much fun. Perfect compliment to my personality.
Today we started with free time. Then met our guide for a tour of the city and the Uffizi.
I’ve used Florentia for years. I always get Simone and he’s awesome! So I was disappointed to hear he was in China with his family. So selfish of me!
So today, we got Dr. Luca. And as much as I love Simone, I may be requesting Luca from now on. He was amazing and hilarious. Picture an older gentleman wearing a linen liesure suit. More animated than a Pixar movie. Some of the kids got video of him raising the roof in the Baptistry. Awesome.
He did a little dance to explain a painting. Awesome.
He would say ‘just 5 more minutes, then 3 more’. The best part, he was totally serious.
We split up for a bit. He said “meet here at 4:45, 15 until 5:00, that’s 15 minutes before 5:00, 3/4 after 4:00″. Classic.
After the tour I headed out to another solo dinner. Again 14 of my closest tagged along. With this group, I preferred it. I love them all. Three of us adults sat together and talked adult things. Nice break from teen chat.
A Luca recommended gelateria and off to bed.
Early train to Roma!
Jun
8
Day Three (Florence and Free Time)
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We started this morning with a visit to several churches. First stop was San Marco to see the incorrupt, San Antoninus.
Then to Santa Croce to visit the tomb of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli and Puccini.
From here to Vivoli’s. The second best gelateria in Florence. Then lunch at my favorite spot, Verranzzano. Foccacia all around. Also some excellent wine.
Then over to Santa Maria Novella.
Followed by some free time to shop the markets.
Dinner was on our own. I told them where I was going, Open Bar, and my dinner for one turned into dinner with 14 of my closet friends. Ah Firenze! And don’t worry parents, the name of the place refers to the fact that the restaurant hangs over and opens up onto the Arno with a classic view of the Ponte Vecchio.
We had some great discussion as we started to get to know one another better. As it often does, the discussion turned to music.
From here back to GROM dispite the lady that dissed Marcella. Luckily she was not working. But first a stop to ride the carosel. More California love and back go the hotel.
Jun
8
Packing
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Packing is very important for me. On my first trip to Italy in 1999, I brought 2 suits. I don’t even wear suits. Plus a few pair of shoes and more socks and underwear than I could use in a month. A full size umbrella. I think there was even a toaster oven in there. Plus 3 or 4 guidebooks.
My next trip was just the opposite. One extreme or the other, I guess. I went in Feb/Mar. I took one backpack. Not a backpacking style backpack. A highschool style Jansport. No jacket.
Just a few days in and the backpack was stuffed so full I could not even zip it. I had to buy a jacket (great excuse for leather from Florence) and another lame and expensive bag.
Now many many trips later, I’m still trying to find the perfect balance. I have it mostly figured out, but still end up bring something I don’t need.
Anyway, here is my must have packing list:
Socks
5 pairs of each.
I’ve tried so many socks. Fancy walking socks, smartwool, coolmax, on and on and on. The problem is that I KILL socks. Think each pair is worn twice. Covering sometimes 5-10 miles in a day with heavy walking over cobblestone and usually in heat. So paying $20 for one pair of socks seems ridiculous. But, I think I’ve found the perfect sock, Gold Toe City Crew. Big, thick and they come in several colors. So far they’ve been great. And I paid $8 for 4 pair.
Underwear
Also 5 of each.
About two years ago I found the perfect brand. ExOfficio. Their motto is something like 5 weeks, 10 countries, one pair of underwear. I’m not that extreme, but I could see it working. You can wash them in the sink and they are dry by morning. So comfy too. If they were not so expensive, I’d replace all my cotton underwear with these. For now, they stay packed away and ready for travel.
Pants/Shirts
On this trip I brought 3 pair of pants. One pair of denims, which I wear on travel days to save room in the suitcase, plus two lightweight cotton pants.
I brought 8 shirts on this trip. Four solid tees (cotton), two short sleeve button ups (poly mix), two long sleeve button ups (cotton). Works out perfectly for an 8 day trips. I wear each twice. Tees under button ups. Layers, even in summer.
Jacket
I always bring a long sleeve zip up sweater. Actually more of a sweatshirt, only not as casual. Even in August, I bring it.
Shoes
One pair. It varies between Birkenstocks, Clarks, Rockport and Ecco. Right now I’m loving my Ecco Neo Basic Slip On. Great at the airport too.
Pajamas
I decided a while back that I needed something to sleep in other than my dirt old clothes. I bring track pants, a long sleeve tee and fluffy socks. But, I’ve only used the socks and pants once on this trip. Too hot and uncomfortable. Oh well.
Toiletries
I go overboard here. But staying in strange places, I like to at least have my own products. Brands I know and love. So even though hotels sometimes have soaps and shampoos, I bring my own. Also shaving lotion, not cream. Razor, toothbrush, paste. Burt’s Bees chapstick. Lotion. Individually wrapped wipes. Hand soap. Shampoo and conditioner. And of course it ALL fits in a TSA approved case. Not gonna check!
Guidebooks
I always need some reference material. But I have no problem breaking books. If I’m going to Rome and Siena, I do not need a chapter on Milan. I take only what I need. Nothing more.
Snacks
I always pack a few protein bars to have on hand. Sometimes I’ll be out for hours and not even realize it.
Electronics
Oh how I wish I could travel without. But, I cannot. I actually could survive without my laptop, but I bring it ‘just in case’.
So Macbook Pro and the power brick. Apple sells international adapters that replace the American plug. Flip HD Mino, charges through the laptop USB. iPhone. Most important! Also charges through USB. I brought a Canon SD 600 with an extra battery. No need to charge. But, I have not used it once. iPhone pics are working for now. Apple also makes and airplane adapter for the Mac. Brought that too. And that’s it!
This all fits in my Zuca Pro. And I have room to spare. With a wife and two girls at home, you know I have to shop! Zuca makes a great no weight nylon bag that stuffs in the side pocket of the suitcase to fill up as I go. Also great for grocery shopping. The first thing I do in a new city. Pick up drinks and snacks to leave in the hotel.
As for the suitcase, my Zuca Pro, I’m reviewing it on this trip and will write up my thoughts when the trip is over. But other than a few annoyances that are true with any suitcase battling cobblestone, it rocks! Super cool, super smooth and the perfect size.
Jun
8
Day Two (Off to Florence)
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This morning we walked down to The basilica of St. Francis.
After touring the upper and lower basilicas, we prayed at the tomb of St. Francis.
A few went to Mass, while other climbed up to Rocca Maggiore.
We took a (crazy) car service down to Santa Maria degli Angeli to visit the porziuncola and see the spot where St. Francis died. I also pontes out the spot where Francis, being tempted, tore off all his clothes and jumped into a thorny rose bush. The thorns fell off and the bush has been thornless eversince. I asked the kids if they would do the same for every impure thought. We all agreed that (sadly) the answer is NO! Becoming a saint is NOT easy.
As soon as we left the town of Assisi, I realized I made a HUGE mistake. I had left our train ticket at the hotel. So as soon as I droped them at the station I had the driver take me back into town. About 15 minutes roundtrip. We had loads of time so there was no danger in missing the train, and if I had to, I would have bought another set of tickets. In the end I was out $30, and probably lost a few days of my life after that ride. I love the crazy driving, but sometimes it can be a but much.
We arrived in Florence and Jules was thrilled to see her first ‘California’ code name for gypsy.
Hotel Loggiata dei Serviti - awesome as ever.
After settling in, it was time for the trophey of the renassance, Michelangelo’s David. I must admit that I was totally nervous explaining such an important piece of work to Art History students as well as their teacher. But according to them, I did ‘great’. Yay!
To my utter disgust, the Accademia had a Robert Mapplethorpe exhibit. Not only that, but they had a famous series of four photographs, of a naked man, IN FRONT OF DAVID! What the **** were they thinking? I was not happy. I have high school kids, which is bad enough, but there are middle school and elementary school kids that come to see David as well. Plus there are those of us that just don’t like crappy art. Ugh.
Then it was a stroll and dinner.
Followed by the BEST gelato, GROM.
Oh we also saw that a movie was being filmed just outside the hotel. Some say Twilight. Plenty of security and what appeared to be fake names on the trailers. I saw no vampires, but they are filming in Tuscany. So, Twilight (true or not) plus high school girls = fun, fun, fun.
Bedtime.
Jun
4
Hello from Florence
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The Latin class wanted to say hello to everyone back home. The Art History class refused to be in front of a camera. — Though I got them to agree to say something in the Pantheon, that will happen this weekend.
So, here it is, BT on the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, at sunset.
Jun
4
More BT updates.
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It’s been difficult updating here everyday. I will continue to do my best, of course. But, if you want ‘live’ updates from the trip, it’s best to follow on Twitter. Second best is to follow on Facebook.
I can make those updates from my phone while we are out and about. Plus, they don’t require an actual internet connection.
Enjoy!