Holy Week is a wonderful time to visit Rome. Here are my picks for the best liturgical events around the city…
Palm Sunday

Fancy palms.
Monday of Holy Week

Scourging Pillar
Tuesday of Holy Week
Today’s Station Church is Santa Prisca.
Wednesday of Holy Week
Today’s Station Church is Saint Mary Major. The big celebration, with a solemn procession, begins at 5:30 PM.
Thursday of Holy Week

Altar of Repose at Sant’Agostino
The Holy Father leads the Chrism Mass this morning at 9:30 AM in the Basilica. Tickets are required, but rarely checked for this Mass.
I recommend a big lunch and an afternoon nap, because tonight is Catholic Rome at its finest! Attend Mass of the Last Supper anywhere, though the Cathedral of Saint John Lateran has a relic of the Table from the Last Supper, so that’s a decent place to go (5:30 PM). But after Mass, visit as many churches as you can. Imagine over 900 churches going all out for their Altars of Repose. Many churches stay open until midnight. I absolutely love going from church to church. Stick to the Historic Center and via Giulia if you want to get as many churches as possible.
Some favorites… Saint Mary Major, Santissima Trinita dei Pellegrini (it’s really hard to leave this one), Sant’Agostino, Sant’Anna. Just stroll and pop into as many as you can. There’s no better night in Rome!!!
Good Friday

The True Cross
Pope Francis leads the Passion of the Lord at Saint Peter’s Basilica at 5 PM. Tickets are required, but rarely checked for this.
Tonight at 9:15 PM is the Way of the Cross with Pope Francis at the Colosseum. While it looks pretty, I’ve never gone. But closed streets, huge crowds, and small spaces. Keep that in mind if you are considering going. No tickets are required and if you want a decent spot, you should arrive hours ahead of time. On the plus side, it’s a short 20 minute walk from Santa Croce.
Holy Saturday

Best seat in the house (for about 10 minutes)
Easter Sunday

We had pretty good seats our first year in Rome (2014).
Back to the Vatican. I love the Easter Sunday Mass in Saint Peter’s Square. Tickets are required, but never checked. After Mass, the Holy Father drives around the Piazza before rushing to the central balcony of Saint Peter’s Basilica for the Urbi et Orbi. And I mean this… go for the blessing, but stay for the bells. These are the second best bells of the year. Mass begins at 10 AM, but arrive by 7 AM for a good seat.